解构里面再次解构_解构后的咖啡:焙炒,研磨和分层,以获得更浓的意式浓缩咖啡
解構里面再次解構
Over a year ago, I developed a technique called staccato espresso where I used a sifter to separate the coffee grounds into fine, mid, and coarse. Then I made a layered (staccato) shot by first putting the fine layer, then the coarse, and then the mid. I found each layer provided certain flavors contributing to the overall flavor, and through this method, I got a better tasting espresso shot. Then I started thinking crazy.
一年多以前,我開發了一種稱為staccato espresso的技術,在該技術中,我使用了篩分器將咖啡渣分為細,中和粗粒。 然后我先放上一層,然后再放上粗糙的,再放中間,進行分層(斷音)拍攝。 我發現每一層都提供了一定的風味,有助于整體風味,通過這種方法,我得到了更好的品嘗意式特濃咖啡。 然后我開始發瘋。
I started thinking about coffee roasting. I didn’t like single origin coffees because I found them not to be balanced, and I had been roasting at home for three years. Typically, I would blend a bean from Africa and a bean from South America to produce a great blend. I blended before roasting because I didn’t want to invest the time into roasting two separate times and blending after the roast.
我開始考慮咖啡烘焙。 我不喜歡單一來源的咖啡,因為我發現它們之間不平衡,而且我已經在家烘焙了三年。 通常,我將非洲的一種豆子和南美的一種豆子混合在一起,制成很好的混合物。 我在烤之前要混合,因為我不想花時間在兩次烤上然后在烤后混合。
However, a natural extension to separating particle sizes is to separate coffee blends to separate bean groups. I couldn’t resist making the process more complicated because at that point, I had the most complex espresso preparation routine. I present the history, the technique in both staccato espresso shots and staccato tamped shots, and show some data collected over the months to show how it produces a better shot in taste and EY.
但是,分離粒度的自然擴展是將咖啡混合物分離為不同的咖啡豆組。 我無法忍受使過程變得更復雜,因為那時候,我有最復雜的意式濃縮咖啡制備程序。 我介紹了斷斷續續意式濃咖啡拍攝和斷斷續續夯實拍攝的歷史,技術,并展示了過去幾個月收集的一些數據,以顯示其如何在口感和EY方面產生更好的效果。
技術發展 (Technique Development)
To experiment, I roasted a typical blend of two bean types separately. I kept the blend separated, and I ground and sifted them separately. I started experimenting with a six layer staccato shot: 2 fine layers, 2 coarse layers, and 2 mid layers. I examined taste by alternately which layer came first, and which layers benefited the most from being split. I found only the fine layer needed to be separated, but which layer came first had an impact on how beneficial the technique was.
為了進行實驗,我分別烘烤了兩種豆類的典型混合物。 我將混合物分開,然后分別研磨和篩分。 我開始嘗試六層斷斷續續拍攝:2個精細層,2個粗糙層和2個中間層。 我輪流檢查口味,首先是哪一層,哪一層得益于拆分。 我發現只有細小層需要分離,但是最先出現的那一層會影響該技術的優勢。
In a first experiment, I roasted Colombia Honey Process Buenos Aires Gesha and Rwanda Dry Process Rusizi Nyakarenzo separately. I then ground and sifted them separately, and I started testing. I immediately saw score differences. I didn’t know how significant they were, and at the time I started splitting all my shots, I would only change the orientation in the first two shots of the roast.
在第一個實驗中,我分別烘烤了哥倫比亞蜂蜜Craft.io布宜諾斯艾利斯Gesha和盧旺達干Craft.ioRusizi Nyakarenzo。 然后我將它們分別磨碎并過篩,然后開始測試。 我立即看到分數差異。 我不知道它們有多重要,當我開始分割所有鏡頭時,我只會在烘烤的前兩個鏡頭中改變方向。
Fine Bean 1, Fine Bean 2, Tamp, Coarse Mixed , Mid Mixed, Tamp細豆1,細豆2,搗固,粗混合,中混合,搗固I pulled the data I had across a few different roasts, and it is not enough data to draw any strong conclusions, but there is certainly variability across roasts. Here is a head to head:
我從幾個不同的烘焙中提取了我的數據,雖然數據不足以得出任何有力的結論,但是各個烘焙之間肯定存在差異。 這里是一對一:
This comparison looks at No Split vs the two different orientations:
該比較著眼于“無分裂”與兩個不同方向:
交叉應用到Staccato搗固 (Cross-Application to Staccato Tamping)
Staccato tamping was a derivative of the staccato shot. I was working with some darker roasted coffee from Hawaii, and I found putting all the grounds in the filter to be too messy. So I started putting only half, distributing, and tamping, followed by the other half. At the same time, I was developing a deeper understanding of staccato espresso, and I discovered the mid layer (top layer in staccato shot) was the key layer to determine how well the shot donuted or not based on its tamp.
斷斷續續搗固是斷斷續續射擊的衍生形式。 我當時正在處理一些來自夏威夷的深色烘焙咖啡,但發現將所有碎屑放在過濾器中太亂了。 所以我開始只放一半,分配和夯實,然后再放另一半。 同時,我正在深入了解斷層意式濃縮咖啡,我發現中間層( 斷斷續續射擊中的頂層 )是確定擊打效果的關鍵層。
I experimented with doing a harder tamp on the first half of a regular shot followed by a much lighter tamp for the top half, and the staccato tamping technique was born. I started tracking the bottom layer pressure, and I found somewhere between 300g and 500g of pressure you be optimal for the bottom layer. For the top layer, I use a leveler, and I track the depth of the leveler.
我嘗試在常規射擊的前半部分進行更硬的夯實,然后在上半部分進行更輕的夯實,斷斷續續夯實技術誕生了。 我開始跟蹤底層壓力,發現300g至500g之間的壓力最適合底層。 對于頂層,我使用矯直機,并跟蹤矯直機的深度。
After I felt more secure in the technique, I started splitting the roast for staccato tamped shots resulting in four layers. I would weigh and distribute the first two layers, tamp, weight and distribute the second two layers, and level.
在我對這項技術感到更加安全之后,我開始將烤肉分割成斷斷續續的搗實鏡頭,形成四層。 我將稱重并分配前兩層,夯實,重量并分配后兩層和水平。
For Staccato Tamped preparation, I also found a benefit in splitting the beans. That preparation involves two layers, top and bottom, where the bottom layer is tamped harder than the first. Similarly to splitting a staccato espresso shot, the top layer doesn’t need to be split. I typically split it just for simplicity sake.
對于Staccato夯實的準備,我還發現了切碎豆類的好處。 該準備工作涉及頂層和底層兩層,其中底層比第一層更堅固。 與拆分斷層意式特濃咖啡類似,頂層無需拆分。 為了簡化起見,我通常將其拆分。
數據與分析 (Data and Analysis)
I collected this data over the course of a year, but the difficulty was making sure I had controlled samples. A lot has changed in my technique in the past year, and I would take some samples with and without splitting on a regular basis. Recently, I curated the dataset, and I found I had a reasonable amount of samples to convince myself that the phenomena was not due to confirmation bias on my part, but it was observable.
我在一年的時間里收集了這些數據,但是困難在于確保我控制了樣本。 在過去的一年中,我的技術發生了很多變化,我會定期取樣和不取樣進行取樣。 最近,我整理了數據集,發現有相當數量的樣本可以說服自己,這種現象不是由于我這一方面的確認偏差,而是可以觀察到的。
Raw data原始數據績效指標 (Metrics of Performance)
I used two metrics for evaluating the differences between shots: Final Score and Coffee Extraction.
我使用了兩個指標來評估鏡頭之間的差異: 最終得分和咖啡提取 。
Final score is the average of a scorecard of 7 metrics (Sharp, Rich, Syrup, Sweet, Sour, Bitter, and Aftertaste). These scores were subjective, of course, but they were calibrated to my tastes and helped me improve my shots. There is some variation in the scores. My aim was to be consistent for each metric, but some times the granularity was difficult and affected the final score.
最終分數是7個指標(“鋒利”,“豐富”,“糖漿”,“甜”,“酸”,“苦”和“回味”)的記分卡的平均值。 這些分數固然是主觀的,但是根據我的口味進行了校準,并幫助我改善了投籃。 分數有所不同。 我的目標是使每個指標保持一致,但有時粒度很困難并且影響最終分數。
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) is measured using a refractometer, and this number is used to determine the percentage of coffee extracted into the cup in combined with the output weight of the shot and the input weight of the coffee, called Extraction Yield (EY).
使用折光儀測量總溶解固體(TDS),此數字用于確定提取到杯子中的咖啡的百分比以及小球的輸出重量和咖啡的輸入重量,稱為提取率(EY) 。
分割分析 (Split Analysis)
Looking at some scatter plots of all the data, it is difficult to see a separation of regular and split shots. This is due to a data imbalance due to my data collection.
查看所有數據的一些散點圖,很難看到常規鏡頭和分割鏡頭的分離。 這是由于我的數據收集導致數據不平衡。
So let’s reduce this data to just the best pairs of shots for each roast, regular and split.
因此,讓我們將這些數據簡化為每次烘烤,常規和分割的最佳拍攝對。
The pattern seems a little clear, but we have paired data, so let’s compare shot per shot. For taste (Final Score), split shots seem improve over regular shots, and for EY, they are often better.
模式似乎有些清晰,但是我們已經將數據配對,因此讓我們比較每張照片。 對于品味(最終得分),分割射擊似乎比常規射擊更好,而對安永而言,通常更好。
When viewed on a line chart instead of a scatter plot, we can sort the shots and see how they perform. There are some anomalies, but it isn’t random.
在折線圖而不是散點圖上查看時,我們可以對鏡頭進行排序并查看其效果。 有一些異常,但不是隨機的。
We can look at a statistical test to understand if these differences in results are statistically significant. For taste, they are, but EY is still a bit too close in distribution. More data is needed, but at the same time, I’ve been working to increase EY, so my hope is that the taste is improving even if EY stays the same. I don’t have enough data to show a trend one way or another.
我們可以看一下統計測試來了解這些結果差異是否具有統計學顯著性 。 就口味而言,它們是一致的,但安永在分銷方面仍然過于緊密。 需要更多數據,但與此同時,我一直在努力提高EY,因此我希望即使EY保持不變,口味也會有所改善。 我沒有足夠的數據來以某種方式顯示趨勢。
We can further break this data down by roast and staccato espresso or staccato tamped. For taste, some of the roasts don’t get much of a benefit, but some do. For EY, one roast in particular is problematic (4/6/2020).
我們可以通過烤和斷斷續續的意式濃縮咖啡或搗固的斷斷續續進一步細分此數據。 就口味而言,有些燒烤并沒有太大的好處,但有些可以。 對于安永來說,尤其是一次烤是有問題的(4/6/2020)。
For the 4/6/2020 roast, two of these shots split the roast based on the top or the bottom but not a split in both the top and bottom layers. So it was 9 grams of one roast, 9 grams of the other, instead of 4.5 bean 1, 4.5 bean 2 on the bottom and the same on the top. Removing those two samples, the EY now sees a statistically significant improvement (the threshold is a p-Value < 0.05).
對于4/6/2020烘烤,這些鏡頭中有兩個是根據頂層或底層對烘烤進行分割的,而不是對頂層和底層進行分割的。 因此,一次烤9克,另一種烤9克,而不是底部的4.5豆1,頂部的4.5豆2。 除去這兩個樣本,EY現在在統計學上有顯著改善(閾值為p值<0.05)。
We can expand the data to compare the same regular shots multiple times to different split shots because the number of split shots was much greater than regular shots. Not all split shots were great. I was merely comparing the best split shots to the regular shots. Some of these shots had lower Final Score and/or EY because they were involved in other experiments such as heat beans, cooling grinds, or modifying the distributor.
我們可以擴展數據以將相同的常規拍攝多次與不同的拆分拍攝進行比較,因為拆分拍攝的數量遠大于常規拍攝的數量。 并非所有拆分鏡頭都很棒。 我只是在比較最佳分割鏡頭和常規鏡頭。 其中一些鏡頭的最終得分和/或EY較低,因為它們參與了其他實驗,例如熱豆,冷卻磨或修改分配器。
完整性檢查 (Sanity Check)
One of the variables that is not controlled, as well as I would have liked, is the output to input ratio. Ideally, this would be the same for every shot, but part of the artistry is ending the shot visually. Some people use a scale, but I’ve been using a measuring cup where I knew the volume range that would give the desired output level. At the start of this collection, the ratio was typically 0.9 to 1.1, and towards the end, the ratio has drifted to 1.2 to 1.4.
正如我所希望的那樣,不受控制的變量之一是輸出與輸入之比。 理想情況下,每張照片都應該相同,但是部分藝術性是在視覺上結束鏡頭。 有些人使用秤,但我一直在使用量杯,因為我知道可以提供所需輸出水平的體積范圍。 在開始收集時,該比例通常為0.9到1.1,到最后,該比例已漂移到1.2到1.4。
Let’s assume there is a linear relationship between EY and ratio, we can do a best-fit line as seen below. There is a variety of wiggle, but we could still use this to adjust all the EY’s to what the EY would be at the 1:1 ratio. There are more shots used for this linear relationship than the paired shots because I included as many shots as I could from those roasts even though they didn’t have a pairing.
假設EY與比率之間存在線性關系,我們可以如下所示做一條最佳擬合線。 有多種擺動,但我們仍然可以使用它來將所有EY調整為1:1的EY值。 用于這種線性關系的鏡頭比配對的鏡頭要多,因為即使沒有配對,我也會從這些烤肉中添加盡可能多的鏡頭。
Then we could take a look at the pairs with adjusted EY’s and test for statistical significance. Again, we run into a similar issue with two shots from the 4/6/2020 roast due to them not being in the same manner of staccato tamped shots. After removing those, the difference between split and regular shots is statistically significant.
然后,我們可以查看調整后的EY對,并檢驗其統計顯著性。 同樣,我們遇到了一個類似的問題,即從2020年4月6日的烘烤中拍攝了兩張照片,這是因為它們的斷音方式不同。 刪除這些鏡頭后,分割鏡頭和常規鏡頭之間的差異具有統計意義。
This results should not be too surprising because the paired shots were pulled in the same time frame, so the range of ratio was usually similar.
這個結果應該不會太令人驚訝,因為配對的鏡頭是在同一時間范圍內拉出的,因此比率范圍通常相似。
I presented a work here built on the staccato concept to improve espresso even further by splitting a roast by the bean. The result has been an improvement on taste and extraction. This split roast staccato technique has had a lasting impact on my espresso routine, and these experiments have furthered the notion that the espresso process is still mysterious with room to grow.
我在這里介紹了一種基于斷斷續續概念的工作,可通過將烤豆切成薄片來進一步改善意式濃咖啡。 結果改善了口味和提取。 這種拆分烤斷斷續續技術對我的意式濃縮咖啡常規產生了持久的影響,這些實驗進一步證明了意式濃縮咖啡的過程仍然具有增長空間的神秘性。
If you like, follow me on Twitter and YouTube where I post videos of espresso shots on different machines and espresso related stuff. You can also find me on LinkedIn.
如果您愿意,請在Twitter和YouTube上關注我,在這里我會在不同的機器上發布濃咖啡拍攝的視頻以及與濃咖啡相關的內容。 您也可以在LinkedIn上找到我。
我的進一步閱讀: (Further readings of mine:)
Pre-infusion for Espresso: Visual Cues for Better Espresso
特濃咖啡的預輸注:視覺提示可提供更好的特濃咖啡
The Shape of Coffee
咖啡的形狀
To Stir or To Swirl: Better Espresso Experience
攪拌或旋流:更好的意式濃縮咖啡體驗
Spicy Espresso: Grind Hot, Tamp Cold for Better Coffee
香濃意式特濃咖啡:磨碎熱,搗碎冷可制得更好的咖啡
Staccato Espresso: Leveling Up Espresso
Staccato意式濃縮咖啡:升級意式濃縮咖啡
Improving Espresso with Paper Filters
使用濾紙器改善意式濃縮咖啡
Coffee Solubility in Espresso: An Initial Study
濃咖啡中的咖啡溶解度:初步研究
Staccato Tamping: Improving Espresso without a Sifter
Staccato搗固:無需篩分器即可提高濃咖啡
Espresso Simulation: First Steps in Computer Models
濃咖啡模擬:計算機模型的第一步
Pressure Pulsing for Better Espresso
壓力脈沖使咖啡更濃
Coffee Data Sheet
咖啡數據表
Artisan coffee is overprice
工匠咖啡價格過高
The Tale of the Stolen Espresso Machine
被盜咖啡機的故事
Espresso filter analysis
濃縮咖啡過濾器分析
Portable Espresso: A Guide
便攜式意式濃縮咖啡:指南
Kruve Sifter: An Analysis
Kruve Sifter:分析
翻譯自: https://towardsdatascience.com/deconstructed-coffee-split-roasting-grinding-and-layering-for-better-espresso-fd408c1ac535
解構里面再次解構
總結
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